Luperon, Dominican Republic to Puerto Rico—the Dreaded Mona Passage

After enjoying and exploring the areas near Luperon for almost 3 weeks, it was time to start looking for the next weather window. Our weather guru, Chris Parker, suggested that it was immediately time to go straight to Boqueron Puerto Rico, as ‘now’ is a great opportunity and could be the best time for a few weeks or even a few months. The timing wasn’t perfect for us—we had hoped to visit some friends on vacation in Punta Cana as well as check out the city of Samana and a really cool looking national park, Los Haitises, before leaving the Dominican Republic. Knowing there are lots of other amazing ports ahead of us, and having a healthy respect for this passage, we decided to make the jump through the dreaded Mona Passage to Puerto Rico.

Since I started researching our trip and route, the Mona Passage has been the most daunting part of it all for me. This passage is located between the eastern end of the Dominican Republic and the western end of Puerto Rico. It is a water passage that goes very close to the Puerto Rican Trench—the deepest part of the Atlantic Ocean at about 26,800 feet. Just off the eastern shores of the Dominican Republic, there are the hourglass shoals—very shallow water dropping very quickly. So, I kind of imagined the ocean here being like an underwater waterfall with crazy currents, water that appears to be boiling, and waves crashing upon themselves in all directions. Then, you add in the wind and heat from the island which creates its own weather—generally a series of thunderstorms off of both the Dominican Republic coast and the Puerto Rican coast that form each evening as the land cools off. These can build into raging storms or trickle out—but it’s hard to predict…There are lots of sailing stories of really rough rides through this area. But, there are also ways to avoid the chaos—mainly waiting for the right weather (light winds and small waves from the right direction), avoiding the areas where the depth changes dramatically, and always having a bailout plan. Thank you, Bruce Van Sant for sharing this wisdom with us in your book and at your talk. So, given the chance to cross at a great opportunity was not to be missed. We had an easy uneventful sail—which we didn’t mention until we were safely anchored 47 hours after departing Luperon. I should also mention that I did pray to Poseidon and the gods of the wind as we were sailing under the stars that night!

Old Technology- pretty cool stuff 

A post by Mark

One of the most surprising aspects of this trip so far is how much I’ve appreciated seeing ‘old technology’ and realizing how it really makes America ‘go’. Barges, towboats, freight trains, grain elevators, coal depots, dams and locks, oil and gas pipelines, etc. It is amazing how big and powerful all of these things are…  

Passing a tow pushing a 15 barge block (3 wide by 5 long) has not gotten old – and I don’t suspect it will. It is pretty amazing to watch a barge getting filled with grain from an old, rusty-looking (but in perfect working order) elevator.


 Its also pretty cool watching cranes lifting cargo out of railcars and into barges. The raw power of river towboats is awe-inspiring – and its fun to talk to the tow captains on the VHF radio (I even have most of the lingo down). Dropping 40’ in a gravity fed lock is nearly unbelievable. 


 The most impressive thing (for me) is realizing that the technology that designed all of this stuff is ‘old.’  These things were created by teams of  smart people using slide-rules, drafting tables, and statistical tables – not high-powered computers and other modern tools.  

Almost makes me wish I were a better engineer. 

Carp update 

Hi – if you were wondering what a bunch of flopping carp look like, check this out!  This picture was in a local newspaper. 

Note: we may not have encountered this many – but it sure sounded like it

Won’t you get bored?

A post by Mark 

One of the questions I was often asked when describing our trip was “Aren’t you worried you would get bored?”. I’d always say ‘no’ – but didn’t always know why. Well, one week in, I can enthusiastically say that the trip has been anything but boring. 
By car, it takes about 5 ½ hrs to get from Racine to St. Louis. As I write this, we’re a little more than ½ to St. Louis – so, about ‘3 driving hrs’ into our trip (7 boat days so far). In those 3-hours of driving, we’ve encountered 6 to 8 foot seas on Lake Michigan, played Frogger with barges on the Chicago Sanitary Canal, waited out a good ‘ole Midwestern tornado warning and string of pretty good thunderstorms, dealt with the river flooding, ran through strong currents and standing waves on the river, and were kept awake most of one night by debris floating downstream and banging into our boat. While each of these experiences has been exciting- we were never scared or in danger , as we had through out each situation, we took our time, figured out plans A, B, C, etc, and were ‘in control’ each time. 

There was, however, one glaring exception two nights ago (spoiler alert – turned out to be completely harmless – but, at the time, it scared the bejesus out of me).   

Here’s the situation – We were tied up at the public dock in Ottawa – a nice, small town in IL. It’s a neat place with a small downtown, a few restaurants, and some cute shops. The founder of the Boy Scouts lived here – and there is a neat little museum dedicated to scouting (both Boy Scouts and all similar organiztions). Lastly, it was the site of the first Lincoln / Douglas debates. All in all, a pretty neat place.

Friday night, as the day was winding down, we finished dinner and were settling in for the evening. We were listening to the marching band at the football game across the river from our dock. Around halftime, as we discussing what we wanted to have for desert, we heard incredibly loud banging, followed by frantic splashing in front of our boat. About 5 seconds later, there was more loud banging and splashing under the center portion of our catamaran, and a few seconds later, a huge splash behind our boat and finally, something banging into the bottom of our dinghy that is suspended about 3 or 4 ft above the water. Julie and I leapt up from the table and bounded outside – not knowing what we were going to find – but figuring it wasn’t going to be good. Had someone fallen into the water and was struggling to get out? A person, a dog? (Sounded more like the size of a cow).  Did the boat in front of us break loose and crash into us? Something worse? We had no idea what it could be. We get to the deck and see nothing. We hop onto the dock to keep looking and still see nothing. On the dock, we run into our neighbors (a couple of “Loopers”* from Cape Cod). They too were thinking something bad happened – but then chuckled as they quickly figured out what happened. Turns out, we had just witnessed a school of Asian carp flopping around – first in front of our boat and then underneath and behind it. Apparently, every once in a while, schools of these huge, (10 to 30 lb) carp start jumping – excited by a certain frequency in the water, usually from a passing boat motor. I had heard of Asian carp – but didn’t know much about them. Still don’t know too much – other than that they can be the scariest part creatures on Earth when they plan a ‘sneak attack’.


So… a week in, our trip is anything but boring. Or warm… today, I was wearing long underwear, 2 shirts, a fleece sweatshirt and full rain gear (it wasn’t raining – but it was in the low 50s and the wind was blowing ~20 mph right at us).

I’m having a great adventure, but there is a little part of me that can’t wait to be a bit too hot and a little bored 😊. Those days will be here soon enough (although, I still don’ think I’ll be bored – there will always be challenges on this trip).

Until I get Wifi again…

Mark

 
Until next post…
 
Mark
 
*Loopers are folks doing the ‘Great Loop’ – a 2,600 mile journey on a loop that passes through the Great Lakes, down the inland rivers to Mobile AL, around the tip of FL, and back up to the Great Lakes via the Erie Canal (or a few other inland paths back to the Great Lakes). We’re traveling ~ ½ the Loop

Boat News

Hi this is Sally,

I going to be sharing some of the most frequent questions and the answers.

#1: Are you exited,  answer: Yes I am super exited  to sail with my family.

#2: When do you leave, answer: We leave on october 9th but were leaving Racine wi on the 8th.

#3: Are you nervous or scared, answer: A little but I’m mostly exited.

#4: Is your dog going, answer: Yes although he’s going to make the trip a lot harder. Good thing he’s a good gaurd dog!

#5: Where are you going, answer: we’re going down the Chicago river to the illinois river to the Mississippi river to the Ohio river to the Tennessee river to the tombigbee which dumps us out in Mobile, Alabama. Then to the Caribbean!!!!⛵️🏝☀️🐚⛱🌊

Come sail away…

I am writing to share the news of our family’s upcoming sailing adventure.  Mark and I have dreamed of and are planning to sail around the world when we retire.  However, we have recently decided to bump up our departure date and sailing plan to include our girls…not around the world (at this time) but for a 2 year stint through much of the Caribbean—leaving from Florida this November and returning to Wilmette for the fall of 2019.  We hope our journey will take us south through the Bahamas, Turks and Caicos, Haiti, Dominican, Puerto Rico, Virgin Islands, St. Lucia, St Vincent and the Grenadines, and down to Grenada.  From there, we plan to head back north by way of Trinidad, Venezuela, Panama, Columbia, Costa Rica, Cuba, and back to Florida.  I’m sure our plans will change a hundred times before we return home (and likely before we even head out).  I am looking forward to many new adventures sailing, boat schooling, learning about new cultures, and living a different lifestyle.  We are still learning lots about the best ways to stay in touch, where to blog, packing lists, food lists, boat parts lists, and things we don’t even know about yet.

So, if your children come home and tell you that Heidi, Lucy, or Sally is going on a sailing trip—we are!  We look forward to a new and different lifestyle camping on the water.  The girls will all be learning how to sail, how to stand watch on ocean passages, how to fish, how to wash laundry in a 5 gallon bucket using seawater, right along beside us.

In the meantime, we are purging all kinds of household stuff, looking for renters, thinking about property managers for our house, inexpensive storage units, etc.

We look forward to sharing more as we get closer.  And, we would love to have visitors and/or meet up with friends along the way.  Now, to find a boat…